Stars in the Andes

Once the rain had stopped and the sky had cleared on my first night of hiking the Inca Trail, I looked up and saw the stars as I had never seen them before. Until then, I had only seen a scattering of individual stars across the night sky. That night, however, the stars were like a blanket that covered me. They had a density that wouldn't allow any individual star to dominate my attention. They lay upon me; warming my spirit and embracing my humanity.  At that moment I was at complete peace with myself and the universe. Indeed, I was closers to the stars then I had ever been before. 

After several minutes of soaking in the experience, I decided I needed to take some pictures but, I was not able to capture with my camera what I was experiencing through my eyes. 

The next night I reviewed my camera's manual; hoping to find a setting that would enable me to replicate through the lens what I felt through my eyes. I knew I just had to include this amazing vision in my blog and DVD. I had to let my students see this  powerful experience. But, my camera could never capture that feeling of being totally blanketed my the universe. 

This blog and my DVDs are my way to bring all of you with me on my "Great Adventures" but, of course, my steps are my own.  My heart pounded as I climbed the steep slopes of the Andes Mountains and my lungs struggled to find oxygen in the thin air.  Try as I might; my blogs and DVDs simply can't replicate that experience. 

My last night on the trail I had given up my attempts to capture the stars. I just looked up; knowing that moment would be for me alone.  The stars made me understand my blogs and my DVDs can never really bring my students with me.  A teacher can never really give his students any kind of true experience or even real knowledge.  All we can hope to do is inspire others to delight in their own steps; climb their own mountains and follow their own hearts to discover their own "Great Adventures". 

The Final Day of the Hike and Machu Picchu

We made it!

Day Three

This was the longest hike of our trek. There were many steep slopes and cliffs but the sights were amazing. 

Day Two of the hike and Dead Woman's Pass

Day Three took us to an altitude of nearly 14,000 ft. I was a little worried about altitude sickness but I had been drinking a lot of tea with coco leaves and had no problems. Jen and I reached the peak together then waited about an hour and a half for the others to take a group picture. Jen also helped me tape the into my DVD. 

After taking pictures, we made it to our second camp sight just before the rain, sleet and snow hit. It was a cold wet night. 

First Day on the Inca Trail

Today was my first day on the trail. Wow!  It was a lot of fun. We started by entering the trail at the starting point were they checked our passports. The sun was out most of the morning and there were some amazing views. We also saw several Incan structures. I was surprised to see how many people live along the trail. There were many horses and cattle moving both directions. 

After stopping for lunch, the clouds moved in and light rain remained for the rest of the day. Jen and I led the way and by the time we reached the camp site the porters had already set up our tents; just in time before the rain got heavier. 

By the time dinner was ready the air was quite cold but the rain had stopped. Dinner began with a nice hot soup that warmed us up. 

As I prepare for the night and write this entry, I hear music from down the mountainside.  I think I will sleep well tonight and that will be a good thing because tomorrow will be the steepest and highest part of the trail. "Dead Woman's Pass" awaits my arrival tomorrow afternoon. 

Caccaccollo

Caccaccollo is a town of about 600.  But I saw very few men because they we either working in the fields or working as porters on one of the trails. They have an elementary school but the children must go to Cusco for high school.  The women produce a variety of textiles using traditional techniques. I was very impressed by how efficient they were. Every part of everything is used for something and then repurposed for something else. 

The children had just completed their winter session of school and were also celebrating Peru's Independence Day so, they had a parade in the town square. 

The temperature dropped to near freezing that night but that didn't stop us from dancing in the community center. It was a long cold walk up the steep mountainside to Miguel and Patricia's home were I spent the night. 

Here's a video of their home:

http://youtu.be/CaXQWpKz3P4

Leaving for the Countryside Tomorrow Morning

We leave Cusco early tomorrow morning for the countryside. I'll be staying with a local family and will probably do a bit of farm work or maybe even some weaving. I've been warned that the nights will get even colder so, I may pickup some extra alpaca clothing to sleep in.  I doubt there will be wifi so it may be a few days before I can make another post so, you may not here from me again until Machu Picchu. 

Right now, I need to organize my gear and pack.

What to Wear?

It's really hard to know what to wear in Cusco. At this high altitude, you can feel both hot and cold at the same time. The air is thin and cold but the sun is very intense.  The hotel doesn't seem to have any kind of climate control. It gets very cold at night but my bed has several layers of blankets and I use them all. 

Getting to know Cusco

I flew to Cusco yesterday morning and just walked around after checking into the hotel. It didn't take long to notice the difference in altitude. I had  a bad headache last night but I felt a bit better this morning. 

So, I went horseback riding through the mountains. The views where amazing and I got some nice video for the DVD. 

San Francisco Monastery

Visited the San Francisco Monastery today.  I was also able to roam the catacombs beneath. 

First Day in Lima

My flight landed early in the morning so, I had some breakfast in the airport before taking a taxi to my hotel.  I had the whole day free to just walk around and get to know the city. As promised, my first meal  was ceviche. 

It's a bit colder here than I expected. This is the Peruvian winter but I was expecting warmer weather this close to the equator. As you can see, I have on a layer of fleece and a jacket over my shirt.  

Tomorrow I will be visiting the catacombs of the San Franscisco Cathedral.  I'm excited about that so I should hit the sack so I can get an early start to my day tomorrow. 

Morning Walk

The sun was just rising as Sweeney and I took our morning walk. My bags are packed and I'm thinking about what I might have for breakfast. 

I can see a bit of fog in the air as I look up at the Baylor tower but, Delta is still showing my departure on time.  The DART train bell rings through the fog as we walk through the station garden.  I'll be boarding the train to the airport in about three hours.

Leaving in the Morning

This will be my last night before I leave so, Sweeney and I are relaxing a bit and having some quality time.  Our friend, Nick, will be taking care of Sweeney while I'm gone. 

Going Over the Checklist

Okay, part one of my summer is over.  Now it's time to focus on Peru. 

My hiking boots are five years old so I thought I should give them a new coat of waterproofing. 

With only 12 days left before my departure, I'm going over my checklist so I'll know what shopping I might need to do before I pack. I know I'll need to pick up some more sunblock and insect repellant.  I'll also need to check my first aid kit.

The temperatures can vary quite a bit as we reach different altitudes in the Andes Mountains so, I'll need to bring a variety of clothing to layer. My sleeping bag is rated to 20 degrees.  I'm thinking that will suffice but, I'll double check that. I've been doing some research and one of my resources recommended bringing a water filter but I've also read there are plenty of places to buy bottled water along the way, except for day two when I will be at the highest altitude. So, I think I can do without the water filter. 

I'm really starting to get excited now that it's almost time to start packing. 

Perspectives in Time

How does an old teacher explain the value of the past to his students, whose days almost entirely await them in the future?

I have returned from "My Great Time Machine Adventure".  Living in the past might be a bad idea but we must be careful not to lose touch with the places from which we come.  I have been here in Dallas for more then ten years now and have been many other places over the last thirty years since I founded 431 Gallery.  I've been lucky to have traveled many long journeys and I look foreward to many more Great Adventures here in Dallas and around the world. As I renewed my aquaintences with my old friends over the last several days, I would often tell them how I have found a sense of purpose in my life here in Dallas. 

Indeed, I am very content with my present but, this week I learned that, in many ways, I never left Indianapolis or 431 Gallery.  I don't have to travel back in time. Those days I lived thirty years ago were, no doubt, among the most important in my life and I am forever grateful for that opportunity to revisit them.  But, I now realize, those days are still with me.  My past has made me who I am today. I would not be the person or the teacher I am today if I had not lived those days.  I made great friends while I learned a lot about art and life. 

My life today, as your teacher, is very different. But, this week I learned that my classroom is most exciting and all of you can learn the most when I remember from where I've come and bring that with me as I prepare my lessons, critique your work and share with each of you how the creative process can bring us to many places in our hearts and minds as well as around the world. 

No, it's not a good idea to live in the past but, don't forget to bring it with you as you make your future; no time machine needed. 

Mysteries of Peru's Past

These are Paracas skulls.  They belonged to some of Peru's past inhabitants.  Look at their shapes.  Do you think they looked like us?  How do you explain such odd shapes to their heads?  How do you think scientists have explained these skulls?

Eating is a big part of the adventure!

Ceviche is a famous raw seafood dish and Peru’s national dish. Popular in various South and Central American countries, Peruvian ceviche is arguably the best. Fish is marinated in citrus juices, typically lime, and is topped off with red onions.Other things served with ceviche include really hot red chillis, coriander and you’ll often get roasted salty corn pieces or cancha on the side and other sides.

Mind Your Footprints

I love to travel around the world on my "Great Adventures".   I also think it is important for me to share my adventure with you, my students so you will be more aware of your own global community and see the bigger picture of everything the world has to offer you.  But I also know that my travels can have a big impact on the places I go and I try to be aware of the footprints I might leave throughout my travels. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr4nbZQazmI

That's why I like to coordinate a lot of my travels with GEEO and Gap Adventures. 

The Difference Between a Vacation and an Adventure

I suppose one's expectations of a good vacation includes guided tours, room service, taking in a show, poolside drinks and a nice tan. But a true adventure includes the unexpected.

Not everything goes as planned on an adventure. How you deal with these surprises separates the tourist from the explorer. I like to try as many new foods as I can. A tourist may taste something "bad" while an explorer taste something strange and knows that's part of the adventure. A tourist is outraged if  he has to take a cold shower while an explorer finds it invigorating or realizes you don't need to shower everyday. 

The whole point of an adventure is to get away from the things you do everyday in favor of the surprise that awaits you around the next turn. I don't want to be the tourist who waste time worrying about the quality of the water or getting a window seat. It's more fun to just jump in with your eyes open. If the train is running late that's a chance to talk to a local in the station. If you drink some iffy water, that's a bummer but it passes and it's something else to talk about when you remember your great adventure. 

One of my favorite days of last year's trek across Eastern Europe was the day I was totally lost in Prague.  I was trying to find someone who spoke English and could direct me to the Black Madona Cafe; where I was to meet an old friend, Lucy.  I wasn't even sure if I could find my way back to the hotel but eventually Lucy found me a few blocks from the cafe and helped me learn my way around Prague. 

Sometimes a little discomfort feels great and it always makes for a good story.

Incacare

The Inca were not only skilled engineers and warriors but also successful surgeons. Five hundred years ago, without the benefit of steel scalpels or antibiotics, the Inca performed a type of operation called trepanation—literally carving holes in patients' skulls.